How to Make the Perfect Frozen Cucumber Soup – Recipe | food

aOn the first really warm day of the year, I went out and bought a can of gazpacho from the sun—when it’s so hot that coaches stick to the runway, I even tend to lose my appetite for anything other than cold liquids. And there is nothing more refreshing than cucumber, a vegetable that is 96% water and 100% containing delicious green ingredients. Many cultures around the world have a recipe for cucumber soup in their collection – Iranian Abdogh KhairIndian Good as soup And the Polish chaptercucumber wedgeto name a few – here’s me.

Option

It’s time to focus on the cucumber, so it’s often simply sliced ​​up and tossed as a last-minute addition to salads, as little more than a crunchy piece on the side. Most soup recipes require it to be slathered before use (and if you plan on serving it in neat little cups, this might be the way to go), but I like the bitter flavor of a paper-thin layer on your average British cucumber, so I’ll keep it. However, I would remove the seeds, as they taste too little and you risk leaving your soup somewhat watery. (Note, if the cucumber you have is very crusty, peel it; it’s a minute’s work, after all.)

Chef Anthony Demeter warns readers of his “Special of the Day” to avoid the temptation to skip the “salting and decomposition process: cucumber juices may be less bitter than they used to be, but they are still somewhat indigestible.” He and Simon Hopkinson sprinkle the chopped chops with salt and let this draw the juices out of the meat, which leads me to an interesting rabbit hole that ends with the discovery that “rough cucumbers” (as Jane Gregson notes, are “shyly known”) a relatively recent phenomenon in history. Too long to estimate the option. Now they seem to be nearly the only offering in town in the UK (unless chef and food writer Thom Eagle tells me, you’re lucky with the heritage varieties), and salting them may make the end product a little salty for some tastes, so I’ll skip this step – but, once Else, if you use local fruit or other wind-blown fruit, as Grigson also charmingly describes, you may want to do so. Simply sprinkle with a pinch of salt and leave in a colander for a half hour or so before continuing with the recipe.

Lightly Fried: Tom Kerridge's Cucumber Soup.  Felicity's thumb.
Tom Kerridge soup includes green peppers, which is a “pure stroke of genius” because it enhances the flavor of the cucumber. Felicity’s thumb.

Chef Tom Craig lightly sautes cucumbers, making his recipe midway between the raw versions of Demeter, Hopkinson and others and the cooked kind found in Margaret Costa’s Four Seasons cookbook and Clarissa Dickson-Wright’s comfort food, which seems to be related to a return to Eliza Acton’s hot cucumber soup And the likes of the Victorian era. Although I cannot detect any real difference in taste, except for the fact that cucumbers take on the flavor of the oil or butter they were cooked in, and that soft cucumbers are certainly easier to mash, I am afraid to recommend turning on the stove unnecessarily in the height of summer, not least because This means that the soup will take longer to cool down to serving temperature.

liquid

Of course, removing the seeds because they are too watery may seem counterintuitive, since the soup needs to be diluted with something, and indeed Kerridge included sparkling water in the version in his Best Ever Dishes, explaining that it helps make the dish “really light and airy.” “. However, like other recipes I try, it also adds dairy, a classic combination with cucumber, in the form of Greek yogurt. It’s also Tom’s mysterious choice, whose recipe was published in the New York Times in 1973, that combines it with sour cream. Demeter uses fresh milk and cream, and Jonathan Meads calls for ice water and kale, which he describes in his Plagiarist in the Kitchen as “fermented and very light, of Basque origin, at the far end of the spectrum of Greek yogurt,” though he acknowledges that sheep’s yogurt can be substituted or goats. Henrietta Clancy uses natural yogurt in her book Just Soup, and Paul Gayler’s Greek yogurt, along with water from cucumber, in his collection of Great Homemade Soups.

Don't Skip the Salting Piece: Anthony Demeter's Cucumber Soup.
Anthony Demeter is one of many who insist that cucumbers be salted first.

Hopkinson, whose soup already has the “most fragrant blend of flavors,” mixes yoghurt with single cream with chicken broth (from cube, for preference) and tomato juice, Dixon Wright uses single cream and chicken broth, thickens the roux, Costa chicken broth and flour-coated cream and egg yolk. Delicious as Costa soup, it tastes more like a rich, chilled chicken broth than anything fresh from the garden, while Hopkinson’s has a distinctly sophisticated complexity and, while a pleasure to eat, the cucumber doesn’t shout out to my test team. We all prefer the simpler cucumber and dairy soup, and decide that the perfect blend for our refreshments is the lightness of the buttermilk (I love the goat meds variety) with the taste of something like fresh cream or sour cream. If you’d like a lighter result, you can substitute fresh cream with enough cold water to achieve an easy consistency, although if you do, I’d suggest serving it in smaller amounts.

Flavors

As with many recipes, alliums are worth a look at here, but not in the form of Kerridge onions or Costa leeks, both of which require cooking, but garlic, which can simply be grated or chopped and stirred. Feel free to put in more than what’s in the recipe below if you want some kind of tzatziki, but remember that a little garlic can easily beat a lot of cucumber. Kerridge also adds a mild green pepper, which I consider a stroke of pure genius: Although it contributes little to the way the heat works, especially given the cooling effects of both dairy and cucumber, the herbaceous greens work brilliantly to enhance similar flavors in the cucumber itself.

Cucumber Soup Felicity Clock 01c

Herbs are also common, especially mint, chives, or dill. I went for dill, as it happily reminds me of pickled cucumber, but if, like many, you’re not a fan of the anise flavor, swap in your favorite soft herbs instead. The flavor of the yogurt means there’s no need to sprinkle citrus in Kerridge, Costa, and Dickson Wright’s recipes, but taste and see—brands vary, and so do taste buds.

Cucumber soup by Simon Hopkinson
Simon Hopkinson’s fragrant flavor blend features yogurt, cream, chicken broth, and tomato juice, and garnished with cooked prawns.

decorations

Although I lazily stuck with sliced ​​cucumber and chopped herbs, it’s easy to turn this soup into a more substantial dish by adding curls of smoked salmon, Demeter recommends, and cooked prawns, as in Hopkinson’s recipe (an excellent pairing with sweet , a little juicy from North Sea numbers), or chopped walnuts, to keep it vegan. To spice it up, you can finish the soup with a little more cayenne pepper or more chopped chili, or of course you can serve it with “a big splash of frozen vodka, if you want to live life to the fullest.” Well, if that’s good enough for Tom Kerridge…

The perfect choice soup

to equip 10 minutes
cook not available
serve 4

2½ large cucumber
1 small garlic clove
peeled and powdered
1 medium green pepperpeeled, peeled, and coarsely chopped
300ml full fat yoghurt (I love goats)
100 ml fresh cream full fator sour cream
1 small bunch of dill, mint or chives
salt

Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise…

Cucumber Soup Felicity Klok: Extract the seeds.

…then extract the aqueous seeds and dispose of them.

Cucumber Soup Felicity Clock 01e Cut two cucumbers and put them into a paste.

Roughly chop two cucumbers and put them in a blender along with garlic and hot pepper.

Cucumber Soup Felicity Clock 01f.  Put the yogurt and mix.

Add the yogurt, fresh cream or sour cream and blend until smooth.

Cucumber Soup Felicity Clock 01 g: Mix

Roughly chop the leaves of your chosen herbs and add most but not all of them to the blender with a good pinch of salt. Whisk again, then taste and adjust seasonings as necessary.

Cucumber Soup Felicity Clock 02a.  Add herbs, then refrigerate.

If you have time, now refrigerate the soup.

Cucumber Soup Felicity Clock 4. Cut the remaining cucumber into cubes.

Meanwhile, cut the remaining cucumber into small cubes. Divide soup among bowls, sprinkle with cucumber slices and remaining herbs, and serve.

  • Chilled Soups: Are they the best way to cool off on a hot day, or are they inferior to a chilled popsicle? Aside from the obvious contenders, like gazpacho, what are your favorite recipes?

  • Felicity Cloake’s new book, Red Sauce Brown Sauce: A British Breakfast Odyssey, is published by HarperCollins at £16.99. To order a copy for £14.78 go to guardianbookshop.com

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