a A few years ago, we were driving along the Circonvallazione Ostiense when the smell of roasting coffee wafted in the car window. The morning was in an area full of bars – so it wasn’t weird, except for the smell I was Unusual: Thick, like croutons, beef, charcoal, and toffee. Our noses twitched and we made guesses as to where it came from. But we’re too late.
A few months later, Corrado, who runs a stall in Testaccio Market, got a new coffee: gold packets from Torrefazione San Salvador di Luigi Pinci. Not only was it my type, but the answer to the question of what came out the window. A few days later, we returned to Garbatella, to find Luigi Pinci.
It began in 1901, when Luigi’s grandfather, also Luigi Benchi, took a job as a janitor at Torrefazione La Pallavicini in Via Pinzoni, which at the time was “the most beautiful coffee roaster in Rome”. The job came with housing, for children and then grandchildren, one of whom was Luigi, born in 1934,”Practically on coffee bags“ (practically on coffee bean bags)And the It is where he has stayed ever since.
In the early 1970s, married with children, Luigi rented the shop in Attilio Bissell Square. For 40 years, he was a general foodSelling bread, cheese, salami and dried goods. But, above all, it was a file roasting, a wood-fired coffee roaster, which, according to a lucky friend who grew up nearby, had a whirlpool euphoria. In 2015, three generations decided to focus more on what they did best, which is torrefazione, and turn the shop into a cafeteria – the most beautiful in Rome, in my opinion.
Now 84, Luigi goes to bed, dreams and wakes up thinking about roasting. When I asked him what coffee meant to him, he said: everything. With the help of his wife, Rita, children Elisabetta and Claudio, and granddaughter Martina, he still wears his brown jacket and toasts three times a week. The mixor mix of beans, is the mix his grandfather and father taught him, shaped for life to buy beans from good suppliers and roasted.
The toaster looks a bit like a stream train – a drum on top of a pedestal that includes a small wooden oven. A vacuum-like tube runs off the top of the cylinders, curves across the chamber and ends in the trough, where the pills are placed in the mouth. Then they are sucked into the roasting drum, which collapses, ensuring that the beans are evenly roasted. It takes about 22 minutes (versus four in an industrial roast). Oftentimes, Luigi sticks an apple core-like tool into the side of the drum to extract a few beans, checking their progress from green to rich brown. Once roasted, the beans flow into a wide plate, where a metal arm pushes them into a funnel. But not before Luigi looks at them. The beans are ground to order in the long bar.
I am writing this on a hot day in a smelly city. The answer is cold coffee — sadly not in, but at least inspired by Torrefazione SS, which (unlike most bars) doesn’t have a bottle full of espresso, possibly sweetened, ready in the fridge. They are also not rude about places or people who do – just clearly not good enough to take their coffee.
They serve three types of Cold coffee. The first is coffee in it iceWhich – so the contrasting effect is entirely yours – gives you a small pitcher of espresso and a cup of five or six ice cubes, so you take charge.
The second is Lychee coffee Lychee style in Puglia. Again, you are given a jug of espresso, a cup with ice and a centimeter of almond syrup, which makes the coffee a darker dark color – probably not a coffee lover, but definitely one for me (if you can’t find the drink, almond milk is almost as nice ).
The third option is shaken coffee, which includes hot coffee, sugar to taste and ice blended into a foam that settles at two degrees. Claudio suggests making it in a homemade jam jar: one espresso, a spoonful of sugar and five ice cubes, tight lid and shake like crazy. They serve this in a martini glass, so I, too, for sparkle, then raise it to the Pinci family.