“Every one of our restaurants has more seating than ever — and I just booked,” says Vicki Freeman, partner at Bowery Group in New York City, which includes Cookshop, Vic’s, Rosie’s, Shuka and Shukette. As of this writing, tables for two before 9:30 p.m. at Shukette, the group’s latest addition, have been full for the next three weeks on Resy, the booking platform. Freeman explains that this happens minutes after reservations open at 9 a.m. each day. From what you can see, reservations in the city are more in demand now than they were in 2019.
Between the return of long queues of pastries and increasingly unobtainable reservations, tables are hot again. But what does it mean to get the table hot in 2022? Perhaps this competition is first and foremost a sign of consumers returning to restaurants. Such as The Wall Street Journal It was recently reported that Resy had its busiest month ever in April of this year, Tock saw record traffic, and OpenTable reported fewer visits to restaurants in 2022 than in 2019. According to Yelp data, searches for reservations in The first quarter of 2022 is up 107 percent compared to the same period in 2021, and the interest in indoor seating far outweighs outdoor dining.
Especially in the age of FOMO and posting everything we do, see and eat on social media, a hot table is a special kind of social currency, and it signifies not only being aware of where we have to go but also having the privilege of accessing those spaces. . Hot Table is not just a glowing written restaurant, but a restaurant that also proves a certain level of business or connections to get in – which is a positive lately The New York Times A review of Horses Restaurant in Los Angeles, for example, noted a waiting list of 1,784 names on an unofficial Thursday. When exit remains weak, both in terms of the pandemic and tight money chains, perhaps every trip matters more now, too.
For some people, exploring the world of restaurants is synonymous with being out again in the world. Before the pandemic began, Abena Anim-Somuah was a “bankrupt college student,” she said, so the bulk of her New York City dining took place in places more budget-conscious than bustle. But after spending so much time cooking during the pandemic, Anime-Sumoah, who has since worked in start-ups, found herself more drawn to restaurant dining as the world opened up (jokingly “NYT Cooking-to-Resy pipeline”). “There is something very special about New York, where there is so much of your outdoor life in restaurants,” she says.
Now, Anim-Somuah is the kind of diner that flags 10 a.m. notifications for Resy drops, aiming for a seat at a few visible restaurants each month (at the time of our conversation, the new Brooklyn-based Laser Wolf was a contender). Narrowing it down forces her to do research around each restaurant to determine which ones she really wants to try, rather than the ones others are trying. While she’s not meant to go to trendy places just for the sake of it, sometimes it’s a coincidence; She suggests that some restaurants are trendy because they offer something exciting. Her other tricks include getting tables to do math to see how many turns a restaurant has each night, stopping to book in person, turning on Resy’s notification function, or watching Instagram Stories for last-minute opening announcements. She says, “I think this is a lot of fun for me. It’s like a little game.”
The desire for some to cross certain restaurants off their “must-visit” lists has led diners to swap fancy dining reservations like trading cards on Reddit or find smarter alternatives — as Eater NY reported in February, a group chat that no longer exists called #FreeRezy will collect multiple tables at places like Dhamaka and then release them to members only. And while selling reservations isn’t a new phenomenon, the practice has rebounded again, but with 2022 spinning around the concept: A new startup called Front of House has partnered with New York City restaurants to essentially create subscriber access to hotspots. With popular seafood restaurant Dame, Front of House presents the “Affable Hospitality Club,” which gives the NFT holder the opportunity to reserve one table per week until the end of the year for a cool $1000.
“It’s not enough to know someone who works there anymore,” said one Front of House user who bought a $300 membership for Emmett’s pizzeria. New York Post. Sign up like “instant VIP status” Mail Wrote. The logic of a model like this seems to suggest that it’s not just about eating at the “correct” place once or twice, but about the opportunity to get an experience – and be seen as such – on a regular basis with a niche of value in places where others might covet a table . It seems only natural that, after disconnection for the past two years, some diners would like to regain a sense of stability, even if it comes at a cost.
In this competitive economy, some diners are getting more comfortable trying to get seats, Freeman says — calling for confirmed reservations for group sizes not available at Resy, for example. While the platform can seem like a game to some users, Freeman appreciates its sense of fairness. “We don’t have a secret hotline,” she says.
On a practical level, getting out may seem more difficult than it used to be, so for some, the security of a reservation is especially attractive. At Penny Roma, a San Francisco restaurant that opened in October, reservations for two fill up especially quickly, COO Amanda Flores explains. Those groups may not have felt the need to move forward with this process before the outbreak of the pandemic, but now” [they’re] Only book 28-day reservations for a secure plan,” she says. Although they seem pretty excited about doing new experiences, “I think people are less willing to risk not having a plan on their night than they have been in the past.”
Overall, this appears to be continuing the pandemic-fueled shift away from spontaneity. “Because things get crowded, I don’t think people want to take the risk of getting somewhere — especially if you’re not in their area — and being told there’s an hour and a half wait,” Freeman says. New York City dining scene. In another big bout, though 8:30 p.m. was “like gold” for reservations, the hot table is now more like 6:30 or 7:00, “even if they’re young.”
Anim-Somuah’s desire to expand her knowledge of the New York City restaurant scene led to her new venture called Friendly Style by Eden, a series of community-focused dinners held at hot restaurants including Bonnie’s, Dame, Dept of Culture, and Gage & Tollner. Having hosted nearly 20 friendly-style dinners, Anime-Sumoah has found that its occasions bring two types of dinner: people who like to socialize and meet new friends in a really cool restaurant; And people who have tried unsuccessfully to get into trendy restaurants for months and see friendly style as a way to get in, with more than one side meeting new people.
It’s easy to get caught up in the hype of a must-visit restaurant and hot reservation, but at the end of the day, there are other places to visit, even if it’s not those places that constantly pop up in your Instagram feed. “Think of the ‘hot’ restaurants that existed four, five, or even 20 years ago,” The New York Times Recommended in a guide on how to find a reservation now. For all her eating endeavors, Anim-Somuah tries not to put too much pressure on herself to go anywhere one. Not being able to hang up a table in a restaurant could be an opportunity to try another place in the neighborhood that needs support. She’s happy to wait a few months if she has to. “I want to be really able to respect restaurants and what they do,” she says. “When you add more to that bubble of noise, it bursts.”
Lucy Fam He is a freelance painter from Vietnam.