Berries, Meringues and Goofs: Yotam Ottolenghi Recipes for Summer Desserts | food

sOmer is always like playtime, which is why summer desserts—essentially an excuse to consume fruit and berries, wine and cream—always look so good. Warm weather demands that they be light in nature – thank you, scrambled egg whites! – making it impossible to resist. Keep the playtime theme with the ingredients as well, and swap out the suggested fruit for whatever you want to hand.

Hazelnut and cherry meringue (top photo)

My colleague Jens Klotz is from the Black Forest region in southern Germany, where the famous gateau of the same name originated. The delicious meringue is inspired by his love of cherries and macaroons, as well as the cake he knows best. Go ahead by making the meringue layers the day before and keeping them well-coated, but don’t assemble the cake until the day you want to serve it. And be sure to leave the cake for at least an hour before serving, as this helps soften the meringue and improve its texture.

to equip 20 minutes
cook 2 hours, including soaking
comfort 1 hour +
serve 8

for marinated cherries
600g fresh cherriespitted and cut in half (530 g)
40g fine sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice

To prepare the hazelnut and chocolate meringue
230 grams fine sugar
130g egg white
(from 4 large eggs)
100 gm dark chocolate (70% cocoa), melted and warm
220g shelled hazelnutsWell toasted, 150g finely blanched, the rest roughly broken

To prepare the whipped cream
500 ml double cream
20 grams powdered sugar
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon peel

to spread the hazelnut
120gm chocolate hazelnut spread
Half a teaspoon sea salt

Preheat oven to 190°C (170°C fan)/375°F/gas 5. Place cherries and sugar in a medium bowl and set aside to marinate for 2 hours while you complete with everything else.

To make the meringue, place the sugar in a small baking tray lined with greaseproof paper, then place in the oven to warm for five minutes (you don’t want it to melt at all). Place the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and beat over medium-high heat for a minute or two, until they form soft peaks. Remove the sugar from the oven and reduce the temperature to 145°C (125°C fan) / 280°F / 1½ gas. With mixer running on medium-low heat, slowly stir warm sugar into beaten egg whites, and once fully added, turn speed back to medium to high and whisk for five minutes until meringue forms stiff peaks and turns glossy. Using a spoon, gently mix the melted chocolate and 150 grams of grated hazelnuts.

Line two large oven trays with greaseproof paper and use a pencil to mark three 20cm circles – you will have two circles on one tray and one on the other. Divide the meringue mixture among the three circles and distribute it evenly until it fills the circles. Bake for 40 minutes, until crispy and slightly puffed, then remove from the oven and allow to cool.

Put the cherries in a colander over a small saucepan to catch the juice – you will have about 80ml of the cherry juice – and set the cherries aside. Place the saucepan over medium-high heat and cook, stirring occasionally, for six to eight minutes, until thickened, syrupy, and reduced by two-thirds (remove the pan from the heat if it reduces more quickly). Remove from heat, add lemon juice and preserved cherries and set aside.

Place cream and powdered sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and whisk for three to four minutes, until mixture forms into medium peaks that hold their shape (alternatively, beat by hand). Add lemon peel and set aside.

Place hazelnuts and salt in a small saucepan over medium heat and warm gently for two to three minutes, until dissolved and spoonful.

To assemble, place 1 piece of meringue on a cake stand or pie plate. Sprinkle with a third of the amount of hazelnuts, then put on a third of the amount of whipped cream, followed by a third of the cherries and a tablespoon of sugar syrup. Sprinkle over a third of the broken hazelnuts, then top with another meringue and repeat twice with layers of the meringue mixture, shortening, cream and cherries. Sprinkle the remaining nut kernels on top, then let them rest for an hour before serving, or for up to three hours.

Blackberry, yogurt and orange blossom lie

This summer pudding is easy, simple, and very quick to assemble. Go ahead by making the crisps up to three days in advance (keep them in an airtight container). Feel free to substitute the berries for another fruit, and use crème fraîche in place of the yogurt, if desired.

to equip 10 minutes
cook 1 hour (including soaking)
serve 6

for blackberries
540 grams of blackberriescut in half
45 grams fine sugar
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon peel
1 teaspoon blossom water
(my choice)

to crumble oats
50 g jumbo oats30gm of finely bleached in a food processor
20 grams plain flour
40 grams whole wheat flour
(or regular whole wheat flour)
Half a teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
Half a teaspoon sea salt
40gm Demerara Sugar
45gm unsalted butter
melted
2 teaspoons golden syrup
2 teaspoons double cream

For cream filling
255ml Double Cream
255g greek yogurt
45 grams icing sugar
1½ tsp vanilla paste
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon peel

Place the berries in a bowl with the sugar, lemon peel, and orange blossom water, if using, and leave to marinate for an hour while you eat everything else.

Preheat oven to 170°C (150°C fan)/325°F/gas 3. Mix first 6 crumb ingredients in a medium bowl. Pour in the melted butter, golden syrup and cream, and stir to combine. Transfer to a medium-sized oven tray lined with greaseproof paper, then bake for 18 minutes, until golden. Leave to cool, then roughly chop with the back of a spoon to chop.

Meanwhile, make the filling. Place cream, buttermilk, powdered sugar, and vanilla paste into the bowl of a stand-up stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whisk for three to four minutes, until the cream mixture turns into medium peaks that hold their shape (alternatively, beat by hand). Add a teaspoon of lemon peel and place in the refrigerator until ready to serve.

To assemble the dish, pour 30g of the cream mixture into six small 9cm x 6cm cups. Top each with 30g of seasoned berries and 10g of crumbled oats, then repeat the layers two more times, so you have three layers of each ingredient, finishing with crumbs on top. Sprinkle over the remaining teaspoon of lemon peel and serve once.

Flognard Peach and Grape with Cold Vanilla Cream

Yotam Ottolenghi Peach and Grape Flognard Topped With Cold Vanilla Cream.

Phlognardi is the closest relative of the most diverse in Clavutis. It tends to deflate almost immediately after it comes out of the oven, so serve it up as soon as possible.

to equip 10 minutes
cook 1 hour 20 minutes
serve 6-8

380 grams Sable grapes (seedless)
4 ripe yellow peaches
(400 g), halved, pitted and each peach cut into 6 wedges
90 grams golden fine sugarplus an additional ½ tablespoon
1-2 lemonsfinely grated to get 1½ teaspoons zest, and juice to get 1 tablespoon
2 tablespoons dark rumor brandy
salt
50gm unsalted butter
450 ml double cream
2½ teaspoons vanilla paste
4 eggs
50 ml full fat milk
50 gm greek yogurt
Half a tablespoon of demerara sugar

Preheat oven to 220°C (200°C fan)/425°F/gas 7. Put grapes and peaches in a shallow 28cm x 7cm cast iron skillet, add 20g sugar, lemon juice, rum and a pinch of salt, mix to coat, then Roast for 20 minutes, until the fruits release juice and boil – the grapes and peaches should soften, but still retain their shape. Spoon the fruit into a colander over a large bowl to catch all of its juices, then pour the juices into a small bowl and set aside with the pan.

Reduce oven to 190°C (170°C fan)/375°F/gas 5. Place butter in a small saucepan over medium heat and cook for five to six minutes, until it begins to turn brown and smell nutty. Put it in a small bowl and leave it to cool.

Mix 300 ml of cream with half a tablespoon of sugar and a teaspoon of vanilla, pour into a jug and put in the refrigerator.

For the custard, put the butter, the remaining 70g of sugar, lemon peel, eggs, ½ teaspoon of vanilla, milk, yogurt, 150ml of the remaining cream and ¼ teaspoon of salt into a blender and blend until the mixture is smooth and pancake-like. Set aside or cool.

When you’re ready to bake, pour the custard into the same 28cm pan that you used to cook the grapes and peaches, and spoon the fruits onto their surface; Some will drown, but that’s okay. Sprinkle with Demerara sugar, carefully transfer the tray to the oven and bake for 35-40 minutes, until risen and golden on top.

Sprinkle half of the reserved grape and peach juice on top and serve the rest on the side with a bowl of cold cream.

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